Chef Nkesi’s call to cookery

Nkesi Enyioha is a seasoned cook and Executive Chef and Owner of HSE Gourmet, a restaurant in Lekki area of Lagos State. Her career in culinary took off the ground over a decade ago shortly after graduating from Ashburton Cookery School in Devon, the United Kingdom. She narrates her pleasant  journey from bar to cookery in this extensive interview with journalists

Chef Nkesi, as she is fondly called, you wouldn’t want want miss for anything in the world. Her art has earned her many positive names like magical fingers whose skilful fusion of African and Asian flavours with European techniques are the talk of town.


Her first restaurant, HSE Café (now HSE Gourmet), began in 2016 and serves comfort soul food. She was on the panel of renowned chefs from around the world to deliver a cooking demonstration masterclass at the sophomore edition of GTB Food & Drink Festival.

While HSE Gourmet has thrived, the executive chef pressed on with her quest which birthed  lSabor, a modern, casual restaurant sitting at 14 Adeola Hopewell Street in Lagos. A visit to Sabor’s Instagram page, @sabor.lagos, showed a plethora of visually premium nourishing cuisines and snacks that can quench one’s thirst bud. This, she believes, is her true calling.

How did you become a food enthusiast?
I’m a lawyer (she chuckled). I know right, easy guess for a Nigerian from my generation. Since I was five years old, I had always liked the idea of cooking; it always fascinated me. And my mom happened to be the world’s greatest cook. As soon as I was done with university (I knew I had no choice; had to go to the university), I decided to pursue a career in culinary arts and that’s what started me on this journey.

What’s the first memory you have when it comes to food and aromas?
My house always smelled of something delicious because her mum was constantly experimenting in the kitchen 1e had a lot of small gatherings.

What are your first memories in the Kitchen?
Thinking about it now, I guess I started off as a prep cook, being asked to chop the onions, carrots etc in preparation for my mum to cook.

The hospitality and restaurant industry has become an “all-comers affair,” with restaurants sprouting up all over the place. What makes Sabor Lagos unique?
Me! (Giggles) I’m joking but the answer will still sound cliché. It’s because we truly care. For me,  this job isn’t strictly for financial reasons, it’s my life, it’s passion and I’m not sure I can do anything else. As the founder and CEO of Hse gourmet, Ohuru by hse and co founder and executive chef Sabor, I am trying to build a legacy, to make a mark and difference in the hospitality industry, to build confidence in our consumers that we the locals can become giants in this industry.

Do you think there is a need to have an independent agency that grades and categorizes restaurants in Lagos?

This isn’t a bad idea at all. In fact it helps healthy competition. However I must stress that the body is truly competent with a wealth of knowledge, expertise and exposure that allows them to assume a position to grade restaurants.

In your opinion, what makes for an excellent luxurious restaurant?
Fantastic service, high quality food and a beautiful relaxing environment.

Some people define luxury as a myth, as nothing but classism, consumerism and exclusivity. I mean, is a restaurant luxurious only when it is overpriced and accessible to just a few people with deep pockets?
No this by no means qualifies a restaurant as luxurious. Luxury in my opinion is an experience. Unfortunately we see overpriced restaurants everyday claiming luxury.


How would you describe your overall Kitchen or Food philosophy?
“If they (customers) are going to take their time to come and also pay for it, then it must be worth every penny (both in taste and quality) and the time they have taken out”

What three words best define your kitchen?
All my kitchens are fast-paced, swift and effective

What dish best represents this philosophy?
Practically all our mains.

What’s your creative process? How do you develop a menu? What inspires you?
I always start from the restaurant concept, then I do a deep research but ultimately my biggest inspiration is travel. Seeing different cultures express themselves through food is quite a fascinating thing to see

Who would you like to have as a guest that you haven’t had yet?
Chimamanda Adichie

What do you like about Nigerian delicacies?
The bold bright flavours


Isn’t it an anomaly that the number of female chefs working in professional kitchens these days is significantly lower than the number of male chefs. Given that cooking has traditionally been considered a woman’s role in most African homes?
Yes it is,and I’m happy to be part of changing that narrative. I am happy to say that HSE gourmet has 70 per cent female kitchen staff and we are working to adopt that across all our restaurants.

Do you have or have you thought about starting a culinary academy here in Nigeria?
Not really. Maybe some holiday cooking, something light and fun but not an academy.

You have lived in different parts of the world and possibly tasted a variety of cuisine. Is Nigerian cuisine the best in the world?
As a Nigerian I will have to say yes. But honestly there is nothing like “the best” it’s always going to be what resonates with you the most.

What are the three most important things in your life?
God, family and career

What are you currently working on , what are the future plans of Sabor Lagos? Will you be expanding to other states anytime soon?
I’m working on finding myself personally this year. More restaurants and food related businesses. Sabor is expanding to a new location which we are excited about. Pretty much world dominance is what’s next for me. Lol

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